Hotel Castel di Vergio offered a wide range of supplies (at a rather high markup), and since Tintin and Snowy had showed up we had enough money to restock our lunches. We were getting a bit tired of the standard fare (especially the sausage and cheese part), but these along with our store of protein bars provide the best calorie and fat content for their weight. Another long hike was ahead of us, and the weather report called for some rain.The trail started off in a pine forest, first descending farther into the valley, then with a long level stretch before slowly rising to Bocca San Pedru. The wind had picked up a bit, but still there was no rain. At this point we passed a few members of the guided group. They had started out very early that morning, probably to spend some time at the Lac di Ninu, or maybe because of the weather. The previous day's hike had taken it's toll, and some of the hikers were pushing their limits with most of the hike still ahead of them. The guide was doing his best to keep the stragglers moving, and was carrying at least two packs.
As the trail started to rise more quickly the rain began, so we got out our rain gear. The wind and rain made for a chilly walk along the exposed ridgeline of Serra San Tomaghiu. Even with the inclement weather the walk was pleasant. We had left the guided group behind, and most other hikers had left so early that they were well ahead. So this whole section of trail we had pretty much to ourselves.
When my family came to Lac di Ninu the previous year we saw just a handful of wild horses, who were generally staying clear of the people. When Markus and I got there the mountain pasture was full of small horses from the nearby bergeries, as well as a few wandering cows. The rain stopped as we descended to the lake, and the sun made an effort to break through the clouds. We stayed in the area for a long time, watching the horses and taking pictures. There were a few groups of day hikers, but not as many as would be expected on a sunnier day.The hike away from the lake was somewhat swampy given the late spring and the morning rain, so we picked our way carefully to avoid damaging the alpine meadow. Soon enough we were back on the drier, rockier path along the headwaters of the Tavignano River. Shortly after lunch among a sparse chestnut grove we reached the Bergeries de Vaccaghia. The guided group spent the night here, and this was the last we saw of them.
The trail crossed a broad flat before climbing gradually toward the Refuge de Manganu, with long views back toward Paglia Orba and ahead to the Breche de Capitellu. The clouds had mostly cleared by the afternoon giving us a warm, dry walk for the last few miles. Most of the other hikers with tents had arrived at the refuge, so we couldn't find a decent tent site. Since the weather report showed a potential for rain we decided to experience a night inside the refuge. Even with the long hike and extended stops we had many hours of the afternoon left to relax on the refuge porch, have a few Pietras, and play rummy. We ate dinner at dusk, then most of our refuge-mates started going to bed (some had gone to sleep long before sunset). Perhaps everyone else was acclimated to the in-refuge environment, or maybe they tolerated it because they didn't want to carry a tent. But the small burden of a 2 lb. lightweight tent is more than compensated for by the peace and quiet that it provides.Next
No comments:
Post a Comment